Last week our editorial staff was all back in the fashion business at Berlin Fashion Week. Three of us covered the fashion tent, others checked out the different trade shows and site events while getting not more than three hours of sleep for five days. Somehow it gets more and more every season, which makes it almost impossible to cover every single piece. This is exactly why we carefully screened all our footage to put together our personal show highlights with a little description of the respective designers for all of our international readers. Generally, we gotta say that we totally LOVE most of the upcoming designs: lots of metallic fibres, different shades of red, orange, rosé and blue and just the right amount of drama. Of course, we could not agree on every single show and/or design, but still, these are the show Highlights Berlin Fashion Week Spring Summer 2014 from the whole editorial staff of V’s World:
Fashion created by designer Hien Le stands out due to the combination of modest purism and subtle details. The flowing materials almost seem magical – an impression that accentuates the soft color palette. Subtle details such as missing collars or hidden buttons add a personal touch to Hien Le’s fashion, making it ideal for individuals who value sophisticated understatement. For us, it was a perfect opening in the tent. Our favorite pieces:
LENA HOSCHEK’S collections do not follow trends or the general conception of ‘cool’, they are simply a reflection of what has fascinated her since her childhood: the female ideal of the 40s and 50s, craftsmanship, high-end tailoring, traditional materials and patterns but also rock ‘n’ roll and punk music, tattoos, bad guys and fast cars. We are actually a huge fan of Lena Hoschek, especially since you get immediately hooked by her amazing shows on the runway. Our favorite pieces:
Rebekka Ruétz’s fashion combines the visible with the invisible. Her creations feature an aesthetic as well as a spiritual function: for example, the fibers on the inside of the clothes are meant to positively stimulate the energy centers in the wearer’s body. A unique concept for open-minded women who are also interested in those things that the eye can’t see. Rebekka Ruétz is definitely one of those designers who polarize – but in a good way. Rebekka Ruétz channeled the famous German alchemical manuscript, Splendor Solis, for her mythical SS ’14 collection and inspired with a magical combination of colors and fabrics. Our favorite pieces:
Kilian Kerner has just finished working on his successive 16th collection. Kilian Kerner finds the inspiration for his collections in emotion. His designs are created by and communicated through feelings – they have stories to tell and they epitomize the emotional worlds corresponding to the central theme of each collection. Our favorite pieces:
Minx by Eva Lutz:
“Those who feel content wear their self-confidence on the outside. Fashion is more than nice clothes. Fashion inspires one’s own personality, and sends out signals into one’s immediate surroundings. It’s not just about visual stimuli, but more about motivation and passion.” This is the philosophy that inspires Eva Lutz to create ever-new combinations of lines, materials and colour compositions for the typical collection statements. Eva Lutz uses garment fit and flowing fabrics to create the unique styling that makes up the statement of her fasionable combinations – and which self-confident women prefer and appreciate. Clever details surprise, surfaces emotionalise, and the silhouette is the vision. Minx is uncomplicated and self-evident. Our favorite pieces:
The 35-year-old designer, whose full name is Dimitrios Panagiotopoulos worked for such renowned designers as Jil Sander, Hugo Boss and Vivienne Westwood before starting out on his own in 2007.DIMITRI stands for quality, accuracy and personality. A passion for music, harmony between accurate tailoring and styling as well as slim feminine silhouettes with a certain something defines his design. Dimitrios designs clothes for women with self-confidence; women of all types and personalities – strong women with a clear sense of personal style. The line between extreme opposites, such as soft/hard or innocent/corrupt, is what makes DIMITRI so exciting, and reflects the vibrant strength of Italian elegance. Our favorite pieces:
The Munich-based designer Marcel Ostertag follows a simple principle. Nothing is given out of hand, nothing is left to coincidence. All the collections are created in a small studio in Munich´s city centre, the production is also carried out in Germany.
Marcel Ostertag and his small team work in the Glockenbach-quarter and enjoy the creative and pulsating life which fills the little streets and the Viktualienmarkt with inspiration. The Munich easiness and the daily joy of beauty, tradition and yet modern lifestyle give the designer creative freedom and a feeling of comfort and security. And, as a side note, he is one of the best models on the runway :-). Our favorite pieces:
Kaviar Gauche is an award-winning label based in Berlin. The designers, Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Roehler, both graduated in fashion design from Esmod before going on to found their ready-to-wear and accessories label in 2005. The line’s signature fuses dynamic cuts and patchwork with fluid feminine accents first realised in the Lamella bag. They are among our all-time favorite German designers and every time we see their new collection, we fall in love all over again. Our favorite pieces:
Inspired by Surrealism the two designers, German-born Annelie Augustin and French-born Odély Teboul, leave enough space for chance in the process of creation, while they insist on flawless workmanship and finest materiality. Deeply routed in the craft of tailoring the duo combines poetry and gravity in their cutting-edge designs. AUGUSTIN TEBOUL stands for an exclusive, avant-garde and yet mind-blowingly feminine look. Our favorite pieces:
Guido Maria Kretschmer:
Guido Maria Kretschmer started his career as a designer at the very young age of nine when he got his first sewing as a gift. He already knew in his youth that his passion for design and textiles would play a tremendous role in his life. This encouraged and inspired Guido Maria Kretschmer to study fashion design in Barcelona. During his studies, aged 21, he already won his first corporate fashion bidding. He subsequently worked as an assistant for the textiles company „Van Delden“ and various other European fashion enterprises. In 1989 he founded the company „GMK by pepper“ and the fashion label „Guido Maria Kretschmer Corporate Fashion“ based in Münster and Palma de Mallorca. He was given his first major job by the airline Hapag Lloyd and designed the entire uniforms for all crew members. Nowadays his customers include both domestic and international clients such asDeutsche Telekom, Kempinski Hotels, Maritim Hotels, SPAR Austria, Montblanc and Emirates Airlines. As a manufacturer, the brand Guido Maria Kretschmer handles jobs of any size. It produces almost 2.5 m pieces for just one of its customers, the tourism company TUI, and is considered to be one of the most successful European corporate fashion brands. The company has its own production plants both in Germany and abroad.
In 2004 Kretschmer founded the fashion label „Guido Maria Kretschmer Couture“. He presented his first couture fashion shows in Tokyo and Shanghai. In 2005 his creations were shown for the first time at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin and audiences were enthusiastic about his stunning designs. Since then he has become one of Germany’s best known designers. The press christened him „the German Valentino“.
Guido Maria Kretschmer’s creative talent also shines in his work as costume designer for opera, drama and feature film productions. Audiences could admire Kretschmer’s work when watching „Il barbiere di Siviglia“ at Deutsche Oper Berlin as well as during Katharina Thalbach’s legendary productions of plays by William Shakespeare and Oscar Wilde at Theater am Kurfürstendamm Berlin.
Our favorite pieces from his spring summer 2014 collection that was clearly inspired by The Great Gatsby:
Patrick Mohr’s creations are usually plain, casual and play with different silhouettes. pure materials such as cotton, wool and leather accentuate the purist impression. Developing from unisex to a new look – sophisticated streetwear with subtile sportiness and modern avant-garde. His look may be described as urban and clean, because classical elements are combined with new forms. Patrick Mohr is progressive fashion with timeless wearability. The label was founded in 2008, after Patrick Mohr had completed his fashion studies at the international fashion school esmod. In the same year he won the “prix createur” for the best collection. afterwards he worked for Henrik Vibskov in Copenhagen. Since 2008, he is developing and designing his own label Patrick Mohr. He impresses with artistical activism by trying to escape from boundaries existing in the world of fashion. His outspoken design creates something new, something independent. Our favorite pieces:
MALAIKARAISS was founded in 2010 in the lovely city of Berlin. Malaika and her team create essential collections of long-time-favorites. Sophisticated but always with a fun-feminine twist. The ready-to-wear styles combine innovative fabrics and yarns with unique finishings in an expressive look and feel. And we LOVE, LOVE, LOVE the new collection! Our favorite pieces:
Isabell de Hillerin:
The German designer Isabell de Hillerin founded her own fashion label in Berlin 2009, after finishing her fashion design studies at the ‘Felicidad Duce’ in Barcelona.
Her design ideas sensitively reflect a personal interpretation of contemporary and sustainable fashion. The combination of clean, innovative cuts and folkloric handmade Romanian and Moldovan materials transmit a position between new design and old tradition. “isabell de hillerin” stands for elegance, structured cuts and details which remind of an old tradition. In recent years the ancient fabrics industry in Romania and Moldovan has been driven to near extinction. To strengthen this traditional artisan industry, her label works with local manufacturers to support the production of handmade materials. Her aim is to push these highly skilled craftsmen by publicising and utilising their cultural skills in a way that hasn´t been done before. Our favorite pieces:
Fashion designer Dorothee Schumacher, brought-up in Düsseldorf. Since then, Fashion designer Dorothee Schumacher has been influenced by the custom of Fashion and Style. Fashion designer Dorothee Schumacher then went to Italy and Franc; to get the proper education in textiles. Beyond profession constructive hindrances, the Fashion designer Dorothee Schumacher created a mosaic that worked out as the foundation for her completely fresh Fashion ideas chic, feminine and bold. Our favorite pieces:
holyGhost is a young fashion label from Munich/ Germany. It was founded in 2010 by three young women, who translate their love and passion for fashion and style into urban apparel for city heroines. The holyGhost look is simple and unconventional. Their philosophy: “Coco Chanel stated at the beginning of the last century that the art of life is the art of leaving things out right. Today we still follow this philosophy. Designing and developing high quality apparel for self-confident women, we focus on what is essential: an uncomplicated and unconventional look. We combine timeless style with actual trends and the vibe of European cities, incorporating the holyGhost character as well as the individuality of our buyers. Our creations are alluring and feminine, but timeless and urban at the same time: Apparel for urban city heroines who strive for individuality and independence. There is a heroine in every woman that needs to be hauled out. Believing in this strongly, we concentrate on enabling the women to haul out their heroine by wearing our creations. We focus on premium materials like silk, soft cotton fabrics and high quality jersey. The combination with leather and metal builds the bridge between femininity and strength. Love and passion for detail makes every peace of apparel one of a kind and the look inimitable. holyGhost stands for a young, unconventional, individual and urban lifestyle. holyGhost. The feminine urban spirit.” Our favorite pieces:
PERRET SCHAAD was founded by Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad in 2009, shortly after they graduated from the Kunsthochschule Berlin-Weissensee. In January 2010, the duo was invited to show their first collection at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. PERRET SCHAAD´s vision is driven by creative curiosity and an interest in individual definitions of beauty. The designers combine ideas and experimentation in a line focused on quality and eloquence. Their approach is one of respect for traditional handcraft and technique, along with an irrepressible desire to break the rules.
The duo´s love of pattern cutting and their passion for draping are fundamental to the PERRET SCHAAD aesthetic. Through an intuitive design process, fluidity is introduced to the sculptural. Structures are generated by the designers’ distinctive colour combinations and material layering. PERRET SCHAAD´s obsession with contrast and harmony results in a coming together of the finest natural fabrics and innovative technical surfaces. The palette is subtle and surprising; the look is discrete and new. Our favorite pieces:
Dawid Tomaszweski is a contemporary, luxury German brand encapsulating innovative high-end design attention to detail and quality. His womenswear clothing and accessories are the embodiment of the 21st century female, the ranges portray the strength, concept and femininity that today’s woman appreciates. His clothes are experimental with an innovative design edge; Using industrial and unconventional materials, combined with inventive cutting, uncompromising tailoring and avant-garde, conceptual design with an aim to re-invent chic dressing.
Drawing on influences from contemporary art, architecture and music his work combines these ascendancies with his personal vision, of how a woman should be dressed, as well as his belief in old craftsmanship and his unwavering attention to detail. This reflects his desire to create clothing that will stand the test of time being wearable today, tomorrow and in ten years.
„I always had a clear vision of how a woman should be dressed.“ The Dawid Tomaszewski woman is a strong and assertive individual and understands the importance of reflecting this in her attire. A brave will and determination are dominate features of her life and her shopping, seeking out design that is strong enough to compliment her body and her mind. Both of his collections, the complex “New Couture line” and his new, more casual “Studio line” demonstrate his susceptibility to fashion and the needs of women. Dawid Tomaszewski does not just want to become a commercially viable label but also a creative force within the arts. Our favorite pieces:
lala Berlin is a German ready-to-wear label in the contemporary segment. The name “lala“ stands for the nickname of company founder and designer Leyla Piedayesh. “Berlin“ embodies zeitgeist and lifestyle of the German capital. lala Berlin is a young, dynamic, urban brand, that focuses on high-end materials such as silk, cashmere, leather, jersey and wool. Sometimes bohemian, sometimes bourgeois or avantgarde, lala Berlin sets its own rules. Instead of being guided by trends, the brand’s inspiration derives from the uncomplicated and eclectic lifestyle of women between 18 and 49 years. The distinctive prints like the lala skull or PLO-pattern are the brand’s trademark and guarantee ultimate recognition. Founded in 2005 in Berlin, designer and entrepreneuse, Lelya Piedayesh, consequently led her brand through the past 7 years to a worldwide successful fashion label. Twice a year lala Berlin presents itself in the context of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin and Paris Fashion Week. The collection is sold in over 150 leading premium fashion boutiques. Furthermore lala Berlin is sold via its own online shop – www.lalaberlin.com – as well as in two flagship-stores in Berlin and Copenhagen. Our favorite pieces:
Urban elegance with a slight touch of psychedelic femininity and refreshing cuts are the basis of the Berlin based fashion label GLAW. Nostalgic elements of times gone by reflect the diverse artistic sources of inspiration of founders Jesko Wilke and Maria Poweleit who got to know each other at the fashion school ESMOD in Berlin.
After having graduated in 2011 both decided to join their creative forces to create the high-end fashion label Glaw which portrays their vision of 21st century women’s clothing honing in on a cross between female power and fragileness. GLAW puts a strong emphasis on wearability and diversity, which is expressed by the fact that the brand addresses a wide range of female consumers from all ages. Luxury materials and high quality manufacturing standards explain the brands positioning in the high-price segment. GLAW is driven by complexity and feminist ambivalence and leaves room for interpretation. Our favorite pieces:
Michael Michalsky was born 1967 in Goettingen and grew up near Hamburg. Deeply fascinated by a documentary about Karl Lagerfeld, Michael took the decision to become a fashion designer at the age of 12. After finishing school, he left his home to study in London at the prestigious College of Fashion. As a picker he financed his studies, thus become a part of the local club scene.
Back in Germany, Michalsky worked as design manager for Levi´s before switching to adidas 1995. As global creative director Michael Michalsky led the sports brand to new glory and success. Since 2005 Michalsky is also supporting the luxury brand MCM as creative director. 2006 he left adidas to realize his dream of owning a fashion label and hence founded the lifestyle brand MICHALSKY in Berlin.
Today Michael Michalsky is one of the most influential designers. Besides working on his own label, Michalsky’s design expertise is regularly commissioned by companies outside the fashion area. Hence, he founded the design agency “MICHALSKY designlab” in 2009, which operates in the areas of product- and interior design, corporate fashion and staging.
Michalsky constantly works together with international artists. These collaborations bear the popular collages and prints, which appear in each MICHALSKY collection. Michalsky´s main source of inspiration is music, followed by his second great passion, photography. He owns an extensive collection including works from Herbert List, Yva, Edmund Kesting, Helmar Lerski, Horst P. Horst, and fashion photography from the 50s, 60s and 70s.
For our editorial staff, the Michalsky Stylenite is always one highlight after an exhausting fashion week. These are our favorite pieces from the women and men collection:
Well, alright – this is a hell of a long list but it surely gives you a great idea of what was happening out there. We will post more fun stuff from Berlin, together with our favorite hot spots, within the next weeks.
photo credentials: Marc B. and Julia S. for V’s World
source: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, V’s World
videos: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin (source: YouTube)